"Everything starts changing place at full speed! Chaos!" "And suddenly, at last something happens," exclaims the polymath, invoking Attila and his horde with a slash of graphite through the Viennese classifieds. For Fermor's benefit, the older man sketches ancient civilization out on the back of his copy of the Neue Freie Presse-the Marcomanni tribe here, the Quadi there-little circles of semi-permanent existence alongside the Danube's sinuous line. He falls into conversation there-as Paddy is wont to do-about regional history with a local polymath. In his travelogue A Time of Gifts, Patrick Leigh Fermor describes a stopover at an inn along the Danube, en route to Istanbul in the winter of 1933.
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